Provençal greens and lucid waters are what make the seaside village of Villefranche-sur-Mer shine on the Côte d'Azur. With bright walls, the most colourful place on the French Riviera is the ideal hiding spot to recharge, just west of Monaco.

Arriving

If you’re arriving by train, the Villefranche-sur-Mer station is nestled atop a cliff so if you’re light on luggage, the town is easily accessible via the stairs. However, if you arrive in a storm with multiple luggage items like myself, arrange a driver through your hotel as taxis/Ubers can be quite limited in the area. From Nice train station, there are multiple trains per day to transfer Villefranche-sur-Mer taking around 12 minutes.

To explore the nearby towns with greater flexibility, renting a car can be a fun way to cruise around at your own leisure.

Things to Do

Obviously, there are a number of towns to visit in the French Riviera (or Côte d’Azur), namely nearby Èze, Antibes, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and of course, Monaco.

For convenience or for those not daring to travel by car along the coast, the best way to travel is by train or bus. Catch a 16-minute bus ride to the iconic Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in nearby Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and explore the opulent 18th-century palace. A seaside residence of Baroness Béatrice de Rothschild and her husband Maurice Ephrussi, it is now an immaculate homage that features nine sprawling gardens overlooking the Mediterranean. Ensure you find a seat in The Tea Room for a famed French raspberry macaron filled with cream, or a glass of wine in the gardens. Afterward, hop back on the bus to spend the afternoon swimming in the aquamarine waters of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat after lunch or a cocktail at the poolside restaurant Jasmine Grill within Royal Riviera.

Alternatively, catch a train from the Villefranche-sur-Mer station to Antibes (around 40 minutes) to walk the many alleyways of this seaside town, purchase a snack from the hugely popular Provençal food markets, or visit one of the stunning beaches. For a cultural site, the Musée Picasso is a must-see, housed in the Grimaldi Castle (dating back to the Middle Ages of 442 to 1385) which later became Pablo Picasso’s art studio.

To elevate your visit, ensure you book a table for an afternoon aperitif or lunch at the renowned Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc (visits are otherwise not permitted by ground staff). Lunch at the Michelin-starred Louroc Restaurant consists of an impeccable seafood buffet overlooking the Mediterranean and famed pool á la Slim Aarons, or choose from the refined menu that would be best suited for a special occasion. Before a lift back to the Antibes station on one of the resort’s golf buggies, a quick pic on the famed cobblestone walkway is non-negotiable.

If you’re keeping it local, hire a boat or bike to explore Villefranche-sur-Mer, arrange a day trip to the incredible medieval village of Èze, or relax at one of the many beaches (des plages) sprawled along the foreshore.

Where To Stay

Hôtel Le Versailles offers sea views, a rooftop pool, and is a low-key option away from the bustle of the town for a relaxing stay bordered by olive trees. The Twin Room with Sea View and Balcony was a superior option for mornings with a great book and in-room breakfast, and the hotel is just a five-minute stroll from the restaurants/cafes…that’s if you’re not indulging in a malfadine pasta with summer truffle at the hotel’s rooftop Mediterranean restaurant or The Pool House.

Accommodation in this village is more casual than its neighbours, so Résidence L'Ange gardien Pierre & Vacances is an ideal option, particularly with a group, or Hôtel le Provencal for a true Mediterranean homely stay.

Dining

For views of the town and bay, book a table on the outdoor terrace at Mayssa Beach during sunset. The rooftop restaurant is located near the Villefranche-sur-Mer pier and is appropriately dedicated to modern seafood dishes. Highlights include carpaccio of scallops with summer truffles, giant scampi, seabream, and a French favourite of strawberries and blackcurrants over violet sorbet with fresh mint, and orgeat syrup.

During the summer months, secure an outdoor table at one of the many restaurants that line the Old Town laneways and specifically, La Caravelle. Expect fresh fish, classic French gastronomy, and my regional favourite, The Colonel (lemon sorbet drizzled with vodka).

Additional mentions include La Belle Etoile for a French fix or L’Aparté for smaller Italian snacks to keep you ticking along.

Bars

An absolute favourite is La Grande Cave. Traditionally a wine cellar, if you’re lucky, grab a seat in one of the cosy alcoves or a table in the laneway for an aperitif before dinner; the rotating daily spritz never misses.

Be quick to snag a seat at Achill’s Rooftop Bar before your dinner reservation in town for sunset views over the bay, an afternoon thirst quencher at DRY Cocktail Bar for some people watching on the promenade, or a low-key Sauternes after dinner at Wine Pier.

Departing

The closest airport is Nice (20-30 minute drive) for any international or domestic transfers. Or! Jump on a train from Villefranche-sur-Mer to cross the Italian border to Ventimiglia (40 minutes).

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