Can you indulge in too much hummus? I can confirm that is not possible when eating in the Middle East. After visiting Israel/Palestine (I will refrain from choosing one) as an 18 year old, I was eager to return 10 years on after finding a great fascination with the area.

We began with 3 nights in Jerusalem, staying at the Villa Brown Hotel which was high quality, and I will never forget the huge mezze spread at breakfast. Whilst we found the heightened security daunting, it also brought a sense of protection and understandably so, as the area continues its political battles. Setting this aside, I was eager to delve into the culture and history. Overwhelmed by the various sites to visit, we narrowed it down to a manageable walking tour despite the intense heat gripping the city. On the list were the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Western Wall, the religious Quarters and Mount of Olives. As being non-religious, I of course still find the history including biblical and cultural developments fascinating. Although it is a centre of religion, it was still extremely important to remain alert, and street smart, as it is when you travel.

To mix things up, it would be rude not to hit the desert and dabble in the Dead Sea. And phwoaarrrr was it a scorcher out there. After the dreaded pile into a mini bus scenario (we were on an organised 8 hour tour) we were later relieved to be split into mini groups and granted a luxurious large air conditioned bus where your overheated state could be well disguised. After the usual tourist drop at a salt scrub shop in the middle of the desert, our first official stop was at the famed landmark Masada. Not to be rude, but it was truly testing to focus on the history relayed to us by the guide when you’re standing in puddles and wondering if it is obvious you are dripping in sweat. Nonetheless, I came out stronger and it was a fascinating experience with spectacular views!

As we made our way back towards Jerusalem, we stopped for a salty float at Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea. The last time I had visited was during winter, so I was itching to test this out. The struggle lies with entering into the sea, given the burning mud as you enter and the need to keep your shoes on. It was a surreal experience to simply float around, and god forbid you get salt in your eye as that is game over. After returning to our HQ, we had a few wines on the balcony before tucking into some more exquisite hummus and a sneaky shisha before our next adventure in Tel Aviv.

After about an hour of driving, we arrived at the Brown Beach House in Tel Aviv with our 11am welcome champagne. I must note that after falling violently ill to the local wine which I attempted to fix myself with some local sparkling, a glass of Veuve was comparable to a Mount Franklin after five days camping. Given we had two nights to explore, we wobbled out onto the heated streets explore, where naturally I always find a food market to sniff around. What I love about these cities is the abundance of fresh treats, aromas and various stalls where you are not heckled.

Amongst the vibrant streets of millennial’s, creatives and all round sun lovers, we decided to just take it easy. After all, our bank accounts were hurting by this stage. But the show rolled on. The striking difference between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem is the complete culture shock. On the beach in Tel Aviv, the smell of marijuana engulfs the air where the more skin showing the better, in comparison to the conservatism of Jersualem. Did I mention Jennifer Lopez shut the city down?

Tel Aviv & Jerusalem