KÖLN

Cologne - or Köln as it is known in Germany - began more than 2, 000 years ago and is nestled along the famous River Rhine. Aside from its history, Cologne is a bustling city and as the fourth-largest in Germany, the vibrancy offers endless activities including the famous Kölner Karneval that takes place in November.

Arriving

From Heidelberg, I arrived by train which took approximately two hours to Cologne HBF. I have to say, the German train system is incredibly clean, quiet, and punctual, offering a seamless service for foreign travelers (with luggage space!). Cologne also has the main airport and the option to arrive by a cruise through the River Rhine, so the city is easily accessible.

Things to Do

Obviously, the Cologne Cathedral is an absolute must-do. This giant structure of German Catholicism and Gothic architecture stands at 157m, and was opened in 1880 after construction began in…1248.

One of the best walking tours on record was the Old Town Cologne Walking Tour which ran for two hours and was loaded with fascinating facts of old and new. I may be a bit biased as it included a visit to a historical lolly store and as a side note, the Haribo factory is also a 50-minute train ride to Bonn (the origin of gummy bears). Reverting back, the tour includes a visit to a Roman villa with a preserved tomb, the Cologne Cathedral, the Holocaust memorial, Cologne’s oldest marketplaces, and uncovering the heritage of the Old Town, as well as the 2000-year-old Roman artifacts. 

For a look into Cologne’s history during WW2, a visit to the NS Documentation Centre is a permanent exhibition that encapsulates the city’s role during this time. Housed in a former Gestapo headquarter, the memorial centre features an extensive array of exhibits and has preserved the basement jail used by the Nazis. 

Over in the Old City, the Wallraf-Richartz Art Museum is one of many in Cologne, and features artwork from medieval fine art to pieces from the early twentieth century. 

If you’re missing a key wardrobe piece or are simply after a browse post Apfelstrudel, you’ll find everything with a stroll through Schildergasse and the streets surrounding this popular street.

Dining

I’m still thinking of this evening. Restaurant Acht in trendy Spichernstraße is a rustic European hotspot with an emphasis on an innovative European menu and a focus on regional produce alongside wine. With an industrial interior and an Italian-esque courtyard for those summer evenings, I would return for those botanical spritzes, Icelandic Cod with grapes, and dessert plum with butter biscuits and milk cream any night of the week.

For a spectacular view over the Rhine on the other side of the Old Town, Glashaus Restaurant within the Hyatt Hotel offers creative dishes in a formal setting. Culinary highlights included the Meagre fish with gnudi, spinach, black rice, and shallot, as well as the dessert of green apple with cinnamon and Florentine biscuit. An after-dinner aperitif at one of the outdoor bars lining the river is a big yes.

Bars

Honestly, my favourite bars were the old-style pubs scattered around the Old Town for an afternoon kölsch, the traditional Cologne beer. Served in a small glass, waiters will continue to bring a new one once the glass is almost empty so placing a coaster on top will bring the beer to a stop.

For a creative cocktail, Seibert’s has a fairy-esque courtyard away from the busy alleyways, and continue into the evening at Samuel’s Shep. The bars are endless in Cologne, just wander the various winding streets and you’ll find a buzzing watering hole at all hours of the day.

Where To Stay

Accommodation here should be narrowed down to what area you’d prefer to stay in. I stayed at Hotel Motel One in Köln-Neumarkt, which is a 15-minute walk from the main station and right behind Schildergasse; a short walk to all the spots! This modern hotel had a great buzz, an outdoor bar in the garden, and a great breakfast with a large range of options for all dietaries (hello, oat milk cravings!); the rooms are albeit small, but you’ll hardly be spending time there when there’s too much to do in the city. 

Other top accommodation contenders include the quirky Wassertaum Hotel by Hilton found in an old stone water tower in the Old Town, with the interior recently renovated into a luxury boutique hotel. Stay for the views, experience the Bar Botanik rooftop bar and soak in the contemporary European opulence.

For the ultimate treat, Excelsior Hotel Ernst am Dom gets the tick of approval. Opened in 1863, this supreme stay features a Michelin-starred restaurant of French/Asian innovation and The Piano Bar to wind down with a cigar for a European-style day debrief. 

Departing

Depending on the next location, there are many options for travel from Cologne. If you’re heading to Paris from there as I did, the fast train took a total of 3 hours and 20 minutes, arriving in Paris Gare du Nord.